Close the bleeder and repeat at each wheel, making sure to top off the master cylinder each time. If you check the hose it should be full of fluid with no bubbles. I like the vacuum pump bleeder systems that come with a gauge pump, but any tried and true method should work. Top off the master cylinder, then pump the brake pedal a few times. You may even want to lock the shoe against drums, bleed the system, and then back the shoes off, before road test.careful, for the first few miles, ensure all fittings are tight and leak free. Now, just put the other end of the tube over bleeder, and open it. Pour just enough fluid into the jar to cover the end of the hose - this way no air can be sucked back into the system. To make your own, drill a hole in the lid of the jar that's just big enough to squeeze the hose through without it falling out. You can buy a set-up like the one pictured above, with the added bonus of a magnet to keep the fluid higher than the caliper, for $5 at most auto parts stores. You will also need a length of hose that fits over the brake bleeder nipple. You can make one yourself from any clean jar or bottle with a lid you happen to have around. One good thing is, you should not need to spend more money on your brake system.This technique is nearly as simple as using gravity, but is also much faster, is the bleed bottle. Brake fluid won't affect teflon, the teflon keeps water out, and it makes a good thread lubricant for three years down the road (when you bleed them again). I usually wrap my bleeder valve threads with teflon tape. It's easily checked by cracking lines along the way. An old flex hose can collapse from the inside, stopping flow. If your rubber flex hoses leak, they normally leave witness marks of fluid on the floor, and they eternally suck air. ![]() To 'reset' the proportioning valve after you're done, simply depress the pedal. If flow stops, do a front caliper, then go back to the rear. Bleed the lines starting with the RH-Rear. My suggestion: Bench Bleed the M/C, first (on the bench). It is designed to shut off fluid from an open line. The combination valve will prevent fluid from running out the rear lines. With bleeding under this pres all spongy, disc brakes, long lease the. I hope you got a dual-master cylinder, for your safety.ĭoes your car use a combination proportioning valve? You said, 'calipers' so I assume you have one. View online (12 pages) or download PDF (892 KB) Ford Thunderbird 1965 User manual. The M/C needs to be level during the process. ![]() It is possible to do it on the car, but you will go through a lot of brake fluid. I bought one of my 65s that had been on blocks for 38 years Had to trailer it home as it had NO brakes. There are several internet sites on how to do this. ![]() If your M/C is new or rebuilt, it needs to be 'bench-bled'. Start bleeding the brakes at a corner till it quits bubbling and move to the next one.Īlso did you bench bleed the master before you installed it, that will help shorten up the amount of air you are dealing with. How I do it is take a clean glass jar, fill it up partially with brake fluid, get a clear tube that fits over the bleed screw and submerse it in the jar. I would not replace the master with another stock single, I changed it over to a dual master from a Mustang and replaced all the rubber lines.ĭid you pull the back drums and check the linings? I ask since you say you have front brakes, but don't mention rear.Ĭould be you need to tighten up the back brakes and you are using to much pressure to move an out of adjustment set of brakes.Īlso till you get all the air out of the lines, things are going to not work well anyway. It ended okay for us, but if the fluid had been out only a few minutes earlier, I would have destroyed my car, my friends BeLair I was following and probably hurt a number of people. Imagine having zero brakes at all, it's a feeling I won't soon forget. after having the back line break on a drive and discovering why Ford's single res. My problem is i have front brakes but pedal wont come off the floor right away but does after a bit, nothing comes out off the back bleeders but losen lines and fluid leaks out, also air bubbles still coming out of caliper so i know i need to continue to bleed but been working on this for awhile am i missing something or is there a trick please help thanksSo you replaced all the metal lines, but not the rubber lines? Ok i have a 65 t bird and i purchased knowing the brakes werent working correctly i was told the master cylinder was bad so replaced it and all the brake lines except for the rubber hoses on the front (the ones that go into the calipers) and the back before the t splitter.
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